by Don Wilcox
I have been doing lapidary stonework for nearly 3 decades. During that time, I have always been intrigued by carving of small stone pieces. My first recollection of carved stone for lapidary purposes was seeing carved stone scarabs in the Field Museum in Chicago as a kid during a field trip. Later, when I first saw small, carved cylindrical stone agate seals. They had intricate designs (often by Sumerian and Babylonian artists), alongside their clay tablet impressions in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. I thought, “I want to make one.” As I have been doing basic stone cabochons and stone focal beads, I decided that starting with easier jewelry pieces would be best. From there, I would practice and build skills to do these smaller more intricate designs.
I went up to Vernon, British Columbia in Canada last year and took a jade carving class with Debroah Wilson, a long-time jade carver and artist who also teaches. She taught me about the various types of equipment used in jade and stone carving. This ranged from a large drop saw and core drill to the small intricate micro-motor hand tool for working the fine detail. In between all of that was the heart of the process, the jade point carver. This is basically a drill cuck in the horizontal position (picture a drill press on its side) over a sink basin with a water feed/circulation system. This allows the carver to switch from sanding drums to cutting wheels to grinding bits and more. It is super versatile to start shaping and smoothing the piece being worked. While often used and mentioned in jade carving, any type of lapidary stone can be worked with a point carver.
Then, last July, while at the annual stone carving symposium for the Northwest Stone Sculptors Association, I spent time in the jade carving tent with instructor, Julianne Kohn. I learned more and saw several different point carver setups than what Deborah was using. With this new information, I was now prepared to build my own.
On a side note, I can't stress enough that participating in and learning from others on how to carve jade is so important. The tips and tricks as well as solid techniques helps to avoid so much trial and error.
Before I get into my choice to build a point carver, I wanted to discuss an alternate method. Many people opt to buy a drill press, remove it from the base, and place it on its side, mounting it to a board. It is also a very portable jade point carving setup. Easy to move and store. This makes a lot of sense for those folks with limited storage and studio space. It is a very simple and relatively inexpensive method for those lacking deep mechanical skills and on a tighter budget.
Back to the jade point carver, I started by sketching out what I needed and then broke it down into several sub-projects:
- frame and sink
- motor, pulleys, arbor shaft, and drill chuck
- water circulation and drain
- water splash guard and lighting
For the frame, I decided that it was important to make it sturdy to transport to the carving symposium, and various shows, so size and weight were important. I also wanted it sturdy enough to be a solid workstation to last my lifetime and beyond. Finally, I wanted it inexpensive so as not to eat up my entire budget as I still had the other parts to consider. I decided to build the frame out of 2x4 lumber and use an off the shelf laminated countertop as the surface area. These factored in well for my considerations above. I designed the height so that it was at a comfortable position when working seated on the various sized chairs.
Before working on the frame and countertop I needed to get the sink so that I could size and space everything correctly. This one got a little tricky. Sinks are generally EXPENSIVE and not really designed for the dimensions that I felt would work best. I was trying to include general workspace for height and width. I also wanted to ensure I had a good depth as I wanted to be able to worker larger pieces if needed as well as place blocks in the sink to rest my hands when the occasion called for. I checked all the major home stores, thrift shops, used home recycling stores, but no luck. The big online retailers were also not much luck, especially on the lower price range I was looking for. I then went to Ikea and found one that met about 95% of the criteria I needed. The $43 price tag sinched it. I was now in business.
Now for the frame, I cut and assembled the 2x4s to create the frame. I put cross supports on the sides and back but left the front open so I could easily slide my feet under for a close comfortable working position. I had purchased the laminated countertop. I cut off about 12 inches of the 48” wider countertop. I secured it to the frame. It fit perfectly as planned, 36” wide but 24’ deep. I was especially careful to allow space for the pulley belt that would be going from the motor underneath through the countertop to the arbor shaft above the counter. After securing it, I painted the frame with a sturdy long lasting paint to help protect it from wear and tear as well as water that might be splashing about. Once I had several coats and it was thoroughly dried, I put rubber cups on the feet to keep it from sliding on the tile in my studio.
I then cut out the hole in the countertop to place the sink in. I marked out where I would cut from a template that came with the sink. I was sure to place it where it would provide enough space on the left for the arbor and chuck assembly, as well as proper space in front and back. The front space was important as I needed to ensure a comfortable place to rest my hand while working. I then drilled a pilot hole on my corner mark and cut out the ½ way with the jigsaw. I then secured a small scrap piece of 2x4 across the cut on the underside with one screw on the outer edge of the countertop and one in the center cutout piece. This was to stop the center from falling out and ripping before I could finish sawing the second half out. I finished cutting the remaining half and then undid the screws on my temporary 2x4 support to then let the center easily slide out.
I secured the sink and underlying plumbing. I opted for a flexible waste line as it would drain into a 5-gallon bucket and be pushed back away from my feet. Once the sink was on, I sealed it with caulk so water would not leak between the counter and sink, wrecking the wood under the countertop’s laminate. Protecting things like this were important to help ensure durability. Now that the frame, countertop, and sink were complete, it was time for the motor, pulleys, arbor shaft, and drill chuck.
I started with motor. I opted to go with a brushless servo Consew commercial sewing machine motor, like the one I had seen in Jullianne’s setup. I felt this offered more versatile speed control than a traditional ½ or ¾ horsepower single phase equipment motor with multiple pulley diameters used to control speed. That requires manually switching the belt to the different pulley positions. The sewing machine motor is also quitter. I found many options on eBay. Once it arrived, this let me know the belt and pulley size I would need to transfer from the motor (with arbor and pulley attached) to the shaft above.
The next step was the drill chuck. I searched and saw many online where prices varied widely. I finally found one that was slightly larger than I wanted but was at a great price for my overall budget. Since this was going on an arbor shaft, I needed to get a threaded chuck. I opted for the 1/32"-5/8" x 5/8"-16 keyless drill chuck. This choice allows me to switch out bits and sanding drums by hand without needed of a check key.
The arbor shaft, pillow blocks, pulleys, and belts were next. Since I now had the drill chuck, I needed to get the shaft. I found a local machine shop, CycleFab (https://www.cyclefab.net), willing to thread the arbor shaft for my project. We discussed the length I needed, the threading, and the key chase. Length was a key consideration. It had to allow various clearances and spacing. The drill chuck on one end needed to properly position over the sink. The other end would be properly positioned over the side of the support wood block that I would use to raise the pillow blocks. This would allow me to raise the shaft to provide better positioning over the lip of the sink. Another consideration was where the motor could be mounted below to properly align the belt up through the countertop but avoiding the frame. This all determined the proper length of the arbor shaft.
He was curious about the chuck head’s 16 threads per inch (TPI) as it was not normal for a threaded drill chuck that he deals with. He measured and sure enough it was an odd 16 TPI. No problem for him, just a little different than he expected. The problem would have been if I bought an off the shelf threaded stainless steel rod without verifying the exact TPI. He offered to throw in the steel shaft for free from some stock he had on hand. When I asked him how it would handle the wet work, he said that it would rust, so we steered towards a 316 marine stainless steel. I did not mind paying extra here as I wanted it to last. He even threw in machining the key chase groove on the other end for a secure non-lip grip with the pulley wheel. The total cost for the arbor shaft and machining was $264.
Back home with my new arbor shaft and the chuck securely installed, I slide it on the 2 pillow blocks I bought. I secured the pulley wheel to the other end and marked where I needed to run the pulley belt through the countertop towards the motor. I set the shaft assembly aside and cut a rectangular slot through the countertop for the pulley belt to go through. Once cut, I sealed the wooden edges with a coating of caulk to help protect from any water that might drain towards it. I didn’t expect water to go that way, but again, a little extra caution ensured great durability over time.
From here, I cut a 2x6 piece for the block to raise the arbor shaft high enough to easily go over the lip of the sink and allow a better working position. I sanded and painted the wood to protect it from water. Next, I secured everything together. I used bolts and washers to secure the pillow blocks to the 2x6 wood block to the countertop, ensuring that the pulley was directly over the new slot I had created. Once firmly secured, I caulked around the lower edge to stop water from seeping between the wood riser block and countertop.
From here, the project took me to the motor. I installed it under the countertop against the frame. This required me to build a support out of 1x6. Since it stuck out a little from the frame, I added some extra support on the vertical with 2 slanted pieces of 2x6 to keep it stable and prevent the motor from getting banged around when I needed to transport everything. I also painted this part to help protect the wood. It would also be sturdy enough if I ever chose to switch out the motor ever I felt I needed more power. Next, I secured the electronic control panel to the front left under the countertop. This also allows me to control speed, including locking in top speed to prevent overspeed if I want. Additionally, it can switch the motor into reverse depending on how the motor is mounted, face up or face down. Finally, I installed the manual speed lever next to the speed control unit on the front left leg. I removed the spring that is normally used to stop the motor when used on a sewing machine when pressure is released. This allows me to set the speed and then keep it there, hands free.
Now that that the motor and pulleys were in place, time for one crucial piece, a simple pulley belt. Without it, the motor would spin but not be able to transfer the beautiful movement to the arbor shaft and attached bit to do its magic. With everything in place, I could now properly measure to determine the proper length of the pulley belt that I needed. I made the mistake of ordering one earlier when I got the sewing machine motor, but did not properly account for the 2x6 wood riser block, final size of the upper pully wheel diameter, and the space for the motor mount bracket I built.
When the new pulley belt arrived, I installed it quickly. It fit perfectly. The sewing machine motor is built on a type of swivel. One end is secured to its base while the other pivots up and down on a threaded screw. This allows one to loosen the screw to allow space for the pulley, then extend it and tighten the bolt on it to properly tension the belt. I was in business. I plugged everything in, hit the power button and slowly slid the manual speed control up. The motor increased speed in synch with the movement of the speed control lever.
IT’S ALIVE!!!!!!
Almost done. Then it was time to take care of the water and splash guard. I opted for simple versus overengineered. I decided I could always refine things later as I use it and decide on what tweaks make sense. I chose a simple small submersible pump from Harbor Freight that was on sale. I suspended it 1/3 of the way down in a 5-gallon bucket with a wire. This keeps it off the bottom and away from the sediment that will settle. Since I will be changing the water often and not using the jade point carver for any type of polishing, I felt that I did not need to filter the recirculating water for grit contamination. I then ran clear flexible tubing from the pump up to a blue hard plastic articulating water line with a broad spray head. It’s attached to a steel base with valve that will let me do 2 things. First, I can secure the base with a magnet in several ways depending on where I plan to place it. Secondly, adjust the head end to place enough water where I need it based on the type of bit or sander I have in the chuck.
It was then time for the final step, a splash guard. I printed a 3D curved frame with slots for plexiglass. I kept the sides flat and the back starting out flat but then curving up toward me and then down again to follow the side arch, forming a hood. This provided total protection from splashes and sprays on the back and sides with just enough on the front top to allow ample open workspace in the front. I used gray PVC filament in the 3D printer as ABS is not good with water. I bought 1/8-inch plexiglass from the hardware store. I gently cut it with a fine-tooth jigsaw. It was important to go slowly and really hold everything firmly. If anything was loose, the jigsaw tended to try to pull up the plexiglass and crack it.
It was here that I made an obvious stupid mistake. I had printed an earlier prototype of the frame and the channel for the plexiglass was too tight. When I adjusted the 3D design for that, I also adjusted the height and curvature a little. Then I reprinted the frames on the 3D printer. To mark where I needed to cut each side on the plexiglass, I used each of the side frame pieces as the template to trace onto the plastic protective film covering the plexiglass. I then drew the center line where I would cut it. Everything worked well. The plexi fit into each side frame piece easily, where I secured it with 2-part epoxy glue. Then when I went to install the rectangular piece for the back and top. I started by fitting it into one side, using a heat gun to relax it into the curve needed for the top and front overhang. This also went well.
I started to secure the second frame/side assembly starting at the back bottom. Everything fit well, but a little tighter than the first side. When I stepped back to look at it, I noticed it was a bit askew. It was then that I realized I mixed the frame parts between the first and second refined printing for the right side. Luckily the taller left side was against the chuck where it was more advantageous. It didn’t look as pretty and spot on as I hoped, but at this point it worked well enough and was only a cosmetic limitation and not functional. I decided I could take time later to redo this if it ever felt more important. Right now it din’t as I wanted to get grinding.
I then only needed 2 quick adjustments. I placed the, now assembled, hood in position to identify where I needed to place the slot where it would sit over the arbor shaft. This went well. I then marked it off and again cut the plexi carefully with the jigsaw. Now I simply needed to glue 2 small downward sloping triangular pieces of pelxi on the inside back corners. The purpose for these is to direct any water and splash back into the sink. This helped to compensate for a rectangular splashguard over a rounded sink.
For lighting, I used 2 small LED lights on bendable arms that clamp onto a surface and a regular articulated desk lamp for general lighting from above. This allows me to adjust how much light and where, depending on the size of the grinding bit and piece I’ll work with.
It was finally done and now ready to use. All in all it took me about 5 weeks and $937 to do everything as I squeezed it in after work and weekends. Now to get cutting, grinding, and progressing. I hope this blog article provides good insight for anyone wanting to build their own jade point carver, good memories for those who have already done so, and entertainment for those simply curious about building one’s own piece of equipment.
General Cost Breakdown to Build My Jade Point Carver
|
2x4 for wood frame |
$ 16.50 |
|
Rubber Feet |
$ 13.30 |
|
Paint |
$ 45.00 |
|
Countertop |
$ 79.00 |
|
Sink |
$ 43.00 |
|
Drill Chuck |
$ 27.17 |
|
Commercial sewing machine motor |
$ 141.56 |
|
Arbor Shaft |
$ 264.00 |
|
2 Pillow Blocks |
$ 43.00 |
|
Pulley Wheel with bushing |
$ 32.00 |
|
Pulley Belt |
$ 5.26 |
|
Plexiglass |
$ 34.99 |
|
Pump |
$ 19.99 |
|
Articulated Water Line |
$ 13.99 |
|
Misc Bolts/Screws/Caulk |
$ 48.00 |
|
Misc parts I already had on hand; PVC printing filament, 2x6, clear poly tubing, glue |
$ 35.00 |
|
Shipping and tax: 25+ |
$ 75.00 |
|
Estimated Total (before tax and shipping): |
$ 936.76 |
To follow along and see my progress in jade jewelry and carvings, as well as any jade rough and jade slabs that I sell, check here. More will continue to be added as I progress.